The villages are famous; the paths between them are older than the fame. For centuries they were the only way to reach the vineyards terraced into the cliffs, and they were built by people carrying baskets, not cameras.
Start early, walk east
By ten the main path is busy. At seven it is yours, with the sea below still grey and the first light catching the coloured houses one village at a time. Walk east so the sun is at your back for the photographs.
Take the high paths
Above the famous coastal trail, a network of higher paths links the sanctuaries and the hill farms. They are steeper, quieter and lined with wild herbs. You will meet more lizards than people.
Out of season
Go in late September or October. The water is still warm, the harvest is on the terraces, and the villages have time for you again.
- Wear real shoes: the steps are uneven and often wet.
- Carry water; the high paths have no cafés.
- Take the little train back if your legs give up. Nobody will judge you.
